When it comes to pet snakes, the vast majority of snake bites occur during feeding time. Many of these are the result of improper feeding techniques.

Among reptile geeks like myself, these are often referred to as stupid feeding errors or SFEs. I myself made an SFE several years ago with an otherwise docile rainbow boa, but I haven’t repeated the error since then. Usually, one SFE is all it takes before a snake keeper changes their tactics!

Fortunately, there is a simple solution to this. Actually, there are many solutions, but the simplest and most effective way to avoid snake bites at feeding time is to use a snake hook. The word “hook” scares some keepers away from using these products, but in truth they are completely safe.

If you’ve ever watched an episode of the old Jeff Corwin Show or something similar, you’ve probably seen a snake hook in action. Basically, it’s like a golf club with a curved part at the end instead of a driver or putter. You can buy them at reptile shows, order them online from companies like Midwest Tongs, or make your own if you’re crafty.

Another way to avoid bites is to choose a pet snake that has a reputation for being docile and reluctant to strike. Corn snakes fit into this category, as do ball pythons. That’s why those two species are among the most popular snakes in the hobby. A healthy corn snake or ball python is extremely reluctant to bite its owner, and typically will only do so if a stupid feeding error takes place (see definition of SFE above).

A lot of keepers transfer their snakes into a separate tank or “feeding tub” at meal time. The idea is that this prevents the animal from associating the cage door opening with food, thereby reducing the likelihood that the snake will bite its owner by mistake. I personally don’t use this option, but it’s worth consideration.

The key to success here is to “think” like a snake. These animals use sight, scent and (sometimes) temperature to detect their prey. So if, for example, you put your hand into a snake’s cage after handling a rodent, that snake would have three indicators that prey was nearby — it would smell the rodent, detect the body heat from your hand, and see the movement of your hand. These are prime conditions for a stupid feeding error.

The solution I propose is simple and nearly 100% effective. Use a snake hook to initially lift the animal from its cage. Lift it from the mid-body area to provide the proper support. Once you have lifted the snake with the hook, it will realize that it’s going to be handled and not fed. Then you can simply reach in with your hand and handle the snake as normal.

Brandon Cornett is the publisher of Reptile Knowledge, an educational website with information about reptile supplies and the proper keeping of snakes and lizards. Learn more by visiting http://www.reptileknowledge.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brandon_R._Cornett

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When choosing a turtle as a pet for the first time, new pet owners may be hesitant as they are unsure as to how they should get started. The good news is that choosing a turtle to add to your household is much easier than it may seem. The following will provide some tips on how to choose this friendly animal for your new pet.

Read Up on Turtles First

Before heading out to the store you should read up on turtles either online or in books from your local library or bookstore. By having the requisite knowledge about these creatures you will be better prepared to become a turtle owner. Not only will you learn what items you need to purchase alongside the turtle in order to get started but you will also gain knowledge regarding how to care for your new pet and keep it happy.

Decide What Type of Turtle You Want

It is also a good idea to determine what type of turtle you want to buy. When choosing a turtle as a pet you will be met with a variety of options with regard to turtle species. When reading about turtles, try to figure out which type of turtle is most suitable for your specific living situation. In addition, if you have children in the home, keep in mind that some turtles will be better suited for homes with kids than others will be. Deciding what type of turtle you want right in the beginning will help you to narrow down the turtle options and choose one which is best for you.

Know That Owning a Turtle Is a Commitment

As with any pet, those who buy turtles are making the commitment to care for them properly and keep them content and safe. Know that you will have to feed the turtle, clean the living space and teach the children to treat the turtle gently. Although a turtle may not take as much effort as a cat or a dog will, it is still a pet which needs to be cared for properly and fully.

Try to Find Package Deals on Turtles and Turtle Equipment

You may also find that pet stores offer package deals on animals and accompanying equipment from time to time. The same may be true in the case of a turtle. Try to find a pet store which offers complete packages which may include the turtle, living quarters for your new little friend, food and any other accessories which turtles need to live happily. Choosing a turtle as a pet in the way of a package deal not only will ensure that you have all that you need for your new pet but you may even get a great deal on all of the items as well.

Craig Thornburrow is an acknowledged expert in his field. You can get more free advice on keeping turtles and Turtle Equipment at http://www.keepingturtles.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Craig_Thornburrow

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A turtle terrarium is ideal if you want to show off your pet and decorate your house at the same time. You will be providing your turtle a habitat, and adding to the natural feel of your home.

Step 1: Get a tank

You will need to get a tank large enough to accommodate your turtle when it reaches its maturity. The minimum turtle terrarium dimensions should be 3-4 times the length of the turtle, twice the length of the turtle in width, and 1.5-2 times the length of the turtle in height. Add 8-12 inches above the highest level the turtle can reach inside the tank so it cannot escape.

If you have more than one turtle, increase the tank dimensions by 40-60% per turtle.

The tank for your turtle terrarium should preferably be Plexiglas, since regular glass produces glare.

Step 2: Prepare the water and land area

Try not to obstruct the water area so that the turtle can swim freely and not bump into or be stuck on decorations. Place the decorations along the corners instead, covering other turtle terrarium equipment like filters.

Turtles love to bask, so they will need land area to rest on. This can be made of acrylic, glass, thick wood, plastic, or a large stone. Anchor the land area above water level, with a ramp sloped so the turtle can climb on.

Avoid sharp edges or decorations that will block the turtle’s path. Also, do not use gravel or other materials that are less than 2 centimeters in diameter.

Step 3: Make sure the water you use is clean

Turtles spend a lot of their time in the water. It is where they swim, eat, drink, and release their waste. Over time, the water will become dirty, and this will make the turtle susceptible to diseases if left unchanged.

Changing the tank water in a turtle terrarium is a tedious job, and is recommended to be done every 45 days, at least. To keep the water clean between each change, you can use a water filtration system instead.

You can also add a teaspoon of salt in every 4-5 liters of water to prevent harmful bacteria, and shell and skin diseases.

Step 4: Decorate the tank

Make the turtle’s habitat a bit more homely by adding decorations to it instead of leaving it bare.

Remember to wash and sterilize things you pick up from the road before you put them in the tank. Do not add decorations that are sharp, pointed, or so small that the turtle can swallow them.

You can add commercial decorations, driftwood, gravel, plants, shells, and stones to your turtle terrarium.

Step 5: Provide proper lighting

Turtles also love to bask, which is why you will need to fit a heating or basking light onto the tank. There are several basking lights available in stores. When you install the lights, make sure they focus on the land area where the turtle will rest.

Aside from heat, turtles also need UV light rays for their calcium metabolization. UV lamps are also available in stores.

Step 6: Situate the tank in a convenient corner

Do not place the tank beside a window. Even though turtles need natural sunlight, windowpane glasses filter 95% of the UV rays. Exposing the tank water to direct sunlight will also cause algae to grow faster, which means you will have to change the water more frequently.

After you have followed those simple steps, your turtle terrarium is now ready. But before you put in your turtle, test the environment first by letting small fish live in the water for a while. This is to check if the water is clean and free of diseases. If all is OK, you can set your turtle inside the tank.

Learn everything you need to know about Turtle Tanks and turtle care at this new website: http://www.TurtleTanks.Org

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_Vidrow

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Dressage is a word for the French language; it simply means “to train.”

In its purest form, dressage is meant to improve the horses balance, and quickness of response to the clear communication of the rider. All styles of riding come down to these two elements, balance and connection. If one of them is missing, riding ceases to be fluid and graceful.

This may sound so simple on paper but, to execute this type of fluid graceful motion from the horses back side; a totally different story. Here are some simple but all important tips to follow in riding dressage:

• First, one must accomplish the ability to go with the motion of the horse to such a degree, you become as one and the horse moves as if you are not even there. After all, dressage is meant to enhance the natural beauty, fluid and graceful movement of the horse.

• Secondly, a young, or green horse that does not understand or accept the contact with the bit, will try to find a position of carriage where that contact no longer exists. Since horses are truly creatures of habit, they will repeat whatever movement or specific carriage provided them with even just a moment of escape from the contact with the bit. Therefore, to encourage confidence and acceptance of the bit, a rider must work to keep the contact as much the same at all times, no matter where the horse places its head. Once the contact is accepted, the horse will no longer try to negotiate or escape the consistent pressure of the bit and will carry its head and neck in a position that is comfortable for that horse in relation to its conformation. The amount of consistent pressure is not necessarily important, within reason of course, but the lighter the contact; the more difficult it is to keep exactly the same.

• Thirdly, when you have arrived at that place where the horse has accepted the contact; maintaining a steady carriage, with a fluid consistent gait. You need to continue to build confidence with your steady feel and motion, creating one singular mood. This is the beginning of a connection. With a connection, you are now able to effect and improve the balance. Young or green horses frequently lose their balance, especially if the rider is over zealous in their demands on the horse. Such as, riding too deep into the corners or circles that are too small or requesting collection when the ability for the horse to be in self carriage and shifting weight to the rear is not present. At this stage of training, the rider just needs to concentrate on the steadiness, performing mostly straight lines connected by gradual curves. The amount of time spent in this stage of training is of course, dependent upon the horse’s conformation and the rider’s ability to be steady and consistent. Confirming the connection is something that is a must even when the horse has progressed to a higher degree in its training.

• The fourth point of this discourse is about, beginning to work with the horses muscles like a rubber band. This would be referred to as, working to develop the longitudinal suppleness of the horse. Once there is a degree of suppleness combined with obedience, the horse can begin to build the increased muscle power for carrying; compression and thrust. The horse must be able to move quickly from a light squeeze of the calf and in turn understand he is to stop or slow down from a slight resistance to the motion from the rider and a little pressure on the bit. The objective here is to develop obedience and confidence to the aids so the horse is able to lengthen and shorten the stride within a particular gait.

• Lastly, we will address what I call lateral suppleness. This is in reference to the side to side balance the horse needs to be able to maintain during circles, corners and particular dressage movements. The spine of the horse does not bend as humans. Instead, their spinal column is rather ridged and there is more bend being achieved just behind the fore legs and in front of the hind legs. As long as the requests of the rider are not extraneously beyond the horse’s capability, the horse will continue to gain confidence in the rider and be willing to yield its massive body to their request. The horse must continually be pushed as in, “pushing the envelop,” otherwise no progress would be made and both horse and rider would eventually fizzle out from shear boredom. Lateral suppleness then increases with the use of smaller circles, deeper corners and particular dressage movements.

Main point to remember, balance and connection need to be maintained first and foremost. It is not sheer repetition that gets results, it is practicing perfect repetition. If the quality, freedom, graceful fluid movement is lost when performing any exercise with the horse, then you know one of the elements has been lost. Once the horse is confirmed in the connection, it is generally the balance that has been lost first, and if this is not recognized and restored immediately, the loss of connection will soon follow. This is riding (training) dressage in a nutshell, without delving into the description and elements needed to perform movement’s particular to dressage.

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Your horse is a completely different species to you. Horses are pretty clever, they pick up what we want them to do, and learn our signals. How good are you at learning your horse’s signals? Do you understand when he is feeling low, or bored, or confused? Sympathising with him and altering your schedule to accommodate your horse is a skill you can transfer to other people. You get on in life much better if you show respect for other people’s feelings.

How can you do it?

A horse thinks like a horse. He can’t get excited about the things you love, such as lessons. His priorities are eating and being with his horse friends. Having respect for your differences is a very important part of horse ownership and will teach you to respect. Do you show respect for your horse and treat him like a horse? Or do you expect him to be like a human? It won’t work, and unless you respect the differences, you will both be miserable. Making allowances, however, will ensure you both enjoy life.

Take a deep breath before you lose your temper. Realise that your horse has his own mind, and can only let you know his feelings by saying no sometimes. Having patience means you love your horse and refuse to judge him without trying to find out what is wrong.

How can you do it?

Lose your temper with your horse and you let yourself down. A horse will not always do what you want him to do. He will have ideas of his own. Jumping for ages, for example. If he says no, or objects in some way to your demands, you are being given an opportunity to discover reasons for his behaviour. Patience is a vital life skill. Without it, you will go through life frustrated, angry and someone other people avoid!

A Horse Teaches You

Having your own horse can equip you with skills which will be useful in times to come.

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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I’m a Farrier in the Bay Area California for about 17 years now. Shoeing horses is a great thing for me as I have helped many horses from lameness and bring about much recovery. When horses feet are correct horses know it and I love it when I see horses become happy and better adjusted from my efforts, blood, sweat and tears. Sometimes though horses are just not happy animals, the following story is just such an example.

A big beautiful paint horse i have shod for the past 12 years for the most part has been easy for me to shoe. The horse “always” was not just quite right though. Usually she would bobble on her back feet while I shoe the front and she would always side step when I approached to shoe the rear. However it was nothing serious enough for me to become alarmed or too concerned - until the other day.

It was time to shoe High (the horses name) so drove out to the ranch where she lived. She is a nice horse - haltered her up and walked back to the shoeing platform. I nearly always start with the front feet (they are usually more important as horses carry so much more weight on the front end). I pulled the front shoes off and started trimming and as usual High started bobbling on one rear leg which makes working on the front feet quite a difficult task. So as usual I sort of bark out the command “Quit”! She usually responds favorably, however this time it was very different.

High went into a “Depression”. I have never seen such a thing before in my 17 years as a Farrier. She started to hang her head and go into a depression, so much so that I could not reach her emotionally. She would not respond to my verbal input at all. This was a serious problem now - not just because she was still difficult to shoe but because the poor horse is basically “Unhappy” and emotionally ill adjusted. I felt real sorry for her.

I know the owner pretty well and know how High is usually ridden. She does not really get ridden much but when she does she usually gets ridden quite hard - and the owner is a rather big man - probably about 6′3″ and I would say 245 pounds. High is a great horse but could use a little more love in her life. She lives with one other horse in a smallish pasture where she really doesn’t have the opportunity to run freely. Life could be better for High.

Well I felt a serious need to help High. Unfortunately she was in such a deep funk I could not reach her - she would not let me in - she was completely checking out of reality. When I pulled on her lead rope she got worse. When I tried to get her attention she got worse. I had to do something and what I knew would work have to be done or she would carry around her psychological issue for a long time.

I had to snap High out of her problem. I made a quick surmise and decided to use a tool that is very effective. I place the little tool into her mouth over the gums on the top and utilize the pressure it is designed to do and I proceed to “Get into her head”. I command “Back” - lethargically she backs. I command “Back” again. She is slipping deeper into her funk - so I needed to become more firm and direct. The backing continues successfully firmer with each command until - somehow - she starts to pay attention and snap out of her depression. She blinks as if coming out of a ten year funk and finally picks herself up emotionally and psychically. AWESOME!!

She is acting like a horse for the first time I have known her. She is displaying true horse behavior. She is more alert, paying more attention to her environment and is more “Here and Now”. I finish shoeing her- it was great - she was much better behaved as if she understood so much more now.

Several weeks later I met up with her owner and asked him how High was as they had just come back from a week long riding event. He told me she was AWESOME and that he had not had such a good ride on her before. You see she learned, and I taught her a valuable lesson - “How to care about herself”. Horses are amazing animals and can sometimes have amazing issues. In the worst of cases horses can be worked on and shown the way to improvement. It is an awesome experience to be with horses, they give us so much and they deserve so much in return, that’s why I love horses.

Reprint rights allowed providing nothing is changed.

Author Bio: John Silveira, Farrier, Aikido practitioner, spiritualist, born and raised in San Mateo California the bay area. For information on his shoeing method and the 16 year 100% track record “Not One Single Lame Horse” just go to http://Farrieritis.Care4Horses.com a thank you and remember to Care4Horses.

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Cleaning cowboy hats using an air compressor or a vacuum cleaner can work for removing dust. It just blows away the dust. It is better and easier to use a hat brush.

But if you need to remove stains, there are stain repellent sprays specifically for cowboy hats as well as hat cleaning sponges.

The cowboy hat is known the world over.

The shape of the cowboy hat depends on the region that it originated from.

At one time a person could tell where a working cowboy was from just by looking at the crease in their hat.

The Stetson hat was the first “cowboy” hat in the USA, which John B. Stetson (credited with designing and marketing the first one) called the “Boss of the Plains.”

Uses of the Cowboy Hat:

Today most people wear them for aesthetic value as part of the western lifestyle.

Colors of hats today are usually muted colors such as black and brown and gray.

The warm light gray known as the silver belly is the most popular.

Women’s hats are identical to men’s but available in a wider variety of colors.

The name Ten gallon hat does not refer to use of the hat as a container. In Mexico the Spanish term “tan galan means “so gallant” and refers to the young, upper-class “leading man” who customarily wore such hats (as opposed to the sombrero.

The Stetson is often know simply as cowboy hats, but refers to the brand name and not the hat. The hat was first sold in Central City, Colorado in 1865.

The Royal Canadian Mounted Police Red Serge dress uniform includes a Stetson with a flat brim.

Everything you wanted to know about horses but were afraid to ask! Go to http://www.livingwithhorses.com Basic horse care Information, how to manage a stable, horse games, horse crafts, and coming soon… horse TV!

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Are you looking for horse games to play? You might be an expert equestrian or a non-rider who simply loves horses. In either case, there are many different kinds of games that you can play with your friends. You can even choose between actual games and online horse games.

Club Games

Traditional club games with horses are still quite popular. Of course, games like these would be much more fun if there are actually a lot of you playing it. You can play traditional slow paced races, obstacle jumping or relay games. You can also play contest games to see how well riders have trained their horses to respond to such commands as bend, turn or canter. Equally enjoyable horse games are grooming and horse leading.

You should always remember though that safety should be your priority with actual games. Make sure that the games fit the skill of the riders who are playing and that you have the right space that can accommodate horses at play. Most of all, you should have horse experts around who can readily respond to emergencies.

Online Games

Playing games with real horses can cost a bit of money and time. One alternative for horse lovers would be to play online games instead. There are a great variety of games to play. You can sign up for paid membership so you can have unlimited access to horse games. There are also free sites that will allow you to play online or download games. You also have the option of playing by yourself or playing with other registered players.

Horse games to play online are even more varied than actual horse games. You can settle for simple puzzle, drawing, memory or grooming horse games. You can also opt for more competitive racing or show jumping games in which you choose your own horses and compete with other players.

There are also a great number of complicated horse games. You can pretend for example to be a real horse or stable owner. You can choose which horses to breed, watch new horses being bought or born and increase the number of horses in your stable. You can groom your horses yourself and choose their own equipment. When your horse or horses are all grown up, you can choose to race them or enter them in virtual shows. Different games of course, have varying levels of detail and complexity.

Online horse games are naturally more convenient and safer to play. They also allow you to meet and interact with new people everyday. Some players eventually learn the value of responsibility and organizational skills through these online games.

It would be a good idea to find out what other players think of a particular game first before joining. There are some sites that offer player perspectives on some games. Check these out to discover which games are worth your time.

It can be quite enjoyable to find fun horse games to play. Whether you play online or with members of a club is only a matter of personal preference. Either case, you will equally have a great time.

If you are a true horse lover, you must have already started your venture to find horse games to play. In case you would like a complete guide on horse breeds, horse sales, horse racing and many other horse topics, be sure you visit our online guide. You may also like to enjoy some fun horse videos while you are at our site.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Powell

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Horses are creatures of habit. They love routines and learn them easily and quickly. This is to our benefit when we want to teach a horse a pattern such as barrel racing or pole bending. It is also to our benefit when we teach a horse to sidepass over a pole or back through the poles. He sees the pattern (or obstacle), knows what will be required of him and practically negotiates it on his own. However, routines can lead to anticipation. The barrel horse cuts in too close to the barrel and knocks it over. The trail class horse tries to back through poles that he should have sidepassed. The spoiled horse stops at the gate, waiting for you to dismount. The trail horse tries to run back to the barn. Anticipation can cost you points in the arena, and be a problem at home. Following are simple tips which can lead to a more enjoyable relation with your horse.

When a horse has a bad habit, the first thing to do is to think, “Why?” Why does a horse try to stop at the gate? Is it because he is a “bad” horse? No, it is because he will be (or has been) rewarded at the gate–rest, the end of the ride. His “work” is over. The answer? Never stop at the gate. Think about what you are telling your horse with every action that you make. Dismount in a different place, every time (away from the gate) consistently so he won’t know when the ride is over. If he stops at the gate and refuses to move past it, make him move away from the gate, even if you need a helper to do so. Then, when you do dismount, tie him in his stall or to a tree for an hour after his ride. His reason for ending the ride, rest and turn out, have just lost their appeal. What fun is it to stand tied, still saddled, for an hour?

If you have a horse that tries to run back to the barn, you must make it more comfortable for the horse to be “right” than wrong (running to the barn). An effective correction is to make him circle three or four times in small circles at the first sign of his attempt to run towards the barn. This must be done immediately and consistently–each and every time. You have to time your correction to within three seconds for a horse to associate it with his crime. He must learn that is more comfortable to obey than to disobey. In addition, vary your dismount site. Tie him after his ride so he learns that he rushed home only to get tied to a tree.

I use the circling correction for various reasons. It is an easy way to “tell” a horse that what he has done is unacceptable to me. It is easiest in performed in a snaffle bit, but that is not possible with some horses. With a shank bit, you’ll have to pull the rein more out than back. Three circles is generally effective. Not only does it tell a horse he has misbehaved, it reinforces basic obedience-turn and obey the signals given by the bit.

The trail class horse must learn to wait for you to tell him to negotiate an obstacle. Patience is a virtue. Stop next to the obstacle and walk away. The next time, put him position and wait. If he tries to back, make him go forward. Walk him forward out of the obstacle without asking him to perform. Change his mind. Vary your routine. Make him wait for your cue to perform. If he tries to back, make him go forward. If he tries to go left, make him go right or visa versa. Enforce obedience. He must obey your cues. He cannot do as he chooses. Yes, this is more work for you. But the results are worth the effort, a well-behaved horse.

Begin each ride walking and end each ride walking. When you consistently walk first, the horse assumes that is what will be required of him when you mount. He will not try to prance or run off in preparation of being asked to “go” as soon as you hit the saddle. A horse remembers the last thing that was asked of him, so walking at the end of a ride not only allows him to cool down properly, it allows his brain to think slow. When a horse slows down, it allows him to learn more readily.

Horses learn habits so easily that we must be aware of what we are teaching by our actions–or inactions. Every time that you ride, your horse learns something, whether you are aware of it or not. Think of what you may be telling him. If you let a horse “win”, you have taught him he does not have to obey. And that can cause results beyond the obvious. If he learns that he doesn’t have to cross a bridge, do you expect him to cross water? A muddy area on the trail? These are all related to lack of forward movement. A horse should never learn that he can say “no” to forward movement. It is better to dismount and walk him over. He must learn that he must cross. Choose the method that is best for the horse, not you! Don’t let your fear or ego get in the way. Beware of what you teach. Think of how or why the horse may be acting as he does. Have you contributed? Have you asked, or allowed, him to perform the same way so that he has learned a habit? If a horse does something three times in the same spot, it is a habit. Be sure that you promote good habits, not bad.

Read more of Laurie’s articles at: http://www.CompleteHorseSource.com/articles.html

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Wild Mustangs are a legendary part of Historic America. They represent the very essence of freedom and times when life was simpler and less hurried. Despite some myths, they come in all sizes, shapes and colors. They are also one of the most affordable methods for people to own a horse when other options fail.

Almost every child has dreamed of owning a horse at one time or another. However, for quarter horses, thoroughbreds and many other “popular” breeds, it is not at all uncommon for prices to start in the thousands of dollars. Mustangs can be had for a fraction of that cost. Unfortunately, many people have misconceptions about the Wild Mustang and often, ignorance and a little bit of work is the only thing that is truly preventing these people from owning their very own horse.

Some people think that it is necessary to break a horse. This may be true if you just want a horse that knows how to do nothing more than play follow the leader in a long string of horses. However, if you want to really experience the full joy of riding on a horse rather than just warming up a saddle while it happens to be on the horses back, try training the horse instead of breaking its spirits completely.

Training a horse may take a little more effort than simply breaking it but it has many benefits which many riders otherwise miss out on completely. If you truly want a magnificent horse and a piece of Americana all at the same time, follow these simple steps and you will find yourself with much more than just a magnificent ride. Be ready to work but do not despair, within a week, you should be able to ride your newfound friend just about anywhere.

Make sure that you do not give the Wild Mustangs any oats before you begin working them. In all honesty, you should not even give them too much alfalfa at first. The reason for this is that in their natural environment, most truly wild mustangs do not enjoy a diet overly rich in proteins. Giving a wild horse nothing but timothy hay or even alfalfa too rich in proteins will cause the horse to suffer from colic and suffer unnecessarily. A good blend of alfalfa with a little straw is often the best diet for your wild mustang … at least until it gets used to eating well.

You may need to place your wild mustang in a small stall to get the bridle on at first. Once you get the bridle on, use nothing more than a hackamore at first and attach about thirty feet of soft rope to it. Never rap the rope in your hand or around your hands or you may lose more than you bargained for. Keep the rope loosely in one hand so that you can drop it or release it quickly if your wild mustang bolts or panics.

A round corral is preferable but not an absolute necessity. Take your wild mustang out and run it in circles. Do not just run it one way but be sure to alternate directions so that the horse does not develop problems with its legs. Keep it running around in circles until it is hot, sweaty, tired and just beginning to foam at the mouth. After two or three days of this, the horse should be used to you placing the bridle and hackamore and will be ready to run some more so will likely fight you much less.

After you have run the horse a couple of times, begin placing a horse blanket on its back and secure it with a cinch strap. You do not want a lot of weight on the horses back but it will not be ready for a saddle just yet either. Be certain not to leave any loose strap or anything else hanging down around the horses feet. If anything flashes quickly in front of its face or dangles across its feet, your mustang may bolt. Take advantage of this time to get your horse used to the curry brush as well. After a good run, your horse may even get to enjoy the brushing almost as much as it does running. Again, you may want to try this while your mustang is in a small stall. The two main reasons for doing this are so you are not in danger should your horse panic and so that if it does panic, you are safely outside where you can get away until it quits fighting you.

After your horse becomes used to the blanket, you will want to try a saddle. After you run your horse and it is good and tired, place the blanket on its back and then while still in the stall, place the saddle on its back. Place the stirrups up over the saddle at first so that they will not be bouncing off the horses side. You and the mustang will both fare much better. After you have the saddle firmly cinched, let the stirrups down. Do not worry about cinching it up too tight as you will not be riding it just yet.

After you do this a couple of times you will be ready to start the final steps in getting your horse ready to ride. Try putting the saddle on the third time with the horse in the stall as usual but before you go running. You should still be using the hackamore at this stage and now more than ever, it will be important not to wrap your rope around anything you are not ready to lose. Take the horse out and let it walk with the saddle the first time. Do not run it as the stirrups may very well cause the horse to panic.

Continue this way until your horse is comfortable with the saddle on its back and then run it a little. You will not have to run it as hard as before but you do want it running with the saddle on before you ever attempt to go riding. After this though, you are almost there. Make certain to curry down the mustang after each ride. By now your horse should be more familiar and more comfortable with you and the entire experience.

After you have done this a few times, you should notice your wild mustang calming considerably and perhaps even looking forward to the time you are spending together. Increase the protein intake slowly as you work the horse more but remember that it will need time to adjust to the food as much as to the saddle. By doing everything in this way, it may take a little more time but your mustang will retain much of its wild spirit while befriending you and learning to trust you.

Once you can do all of this with your horse comfortably outside of the stall without fear of reprisal, you are ready to begin riding. The wild mustang is a wild, mystical and marvelous animal. Work with your wild mustang a little slower and with a bit more patience and you will have a ride that is the envy of all your friends.

CS Swarens is the president of Find a Pet Online. 800 998-7065

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